|“Can she bake a cherry pie, Billy Boy, Billy Boy? Can she bake a cherry pie, charming Billy?”|
She’s a young thing and cannot leave her mother…. is poor Billy’s lament. She can, however, bake a cherry pie quick as a cat can blink an eye! (Click on above link to hear the song; guitar chords included.)
I was just minding my own business. I had stuck the hot cherry pie on a rack on an empty shelf in a kitchen cupboard. A good place to cool pie if you have two golden retrievers. (I made four different pies for Thanksgiving; everyone deserves their favorite once a year. I’m convinced. Cherry is my sister Helen’s favorite. Hence “Helen’s Cherry Pie.” Also my loved “niece,” Kathy’s.)
|Tucker up front in the kitchen, Gabby retreating into the dining room.
So: I leave that shelf open (no mean feat) for all kinds of things I don’t want them to nose into. Such as cheese coming to room temperature. Muffins waiting for breakfast. Unthawing casseroles. There’s one thing about a pie on that shelf, though. It must be on a rack to cool evenly. My rack is large. Sticks out of the shelf. Which was no problem until my arm reached up there to automatically close the cupboard. I almost killed myself ( I have the long scratch and bruise to prove it.) trying to catch that $%f**#@(^& pie before it crashed and burned all over my cement counter. In fact, it happened so swiftly that Bruce Lee couldn’t have managed a save. Alyce hadn’t a prayer.
I could have cried; instead I yelled and screamed bringing Dave up out of the family room yelling, screaming (and cursing), too. He didn’t know what happened, but he was getting ready for outrage as he slammed up the stairs.
Now the first thing that happens is not the realization that you have time to bake another one. I really didn’t, but would get up very early and manage it. “Dame, get up and bake your pies, bake your pies, bake your pies….” The first thing is pure unadulterated anger. Let’s be honest: I was, in the vernacular, pissed off royally. What the hell was that pie doing smashed on the counter? Pies belong on plates, cut into large, luscious slices or tiny little slivers, depending on who you are. They don’t belong in a big heap crushed and splattered. (Luckily the pie plate was intact.) Dave, on the other hand, calmly crossed the kitchen in one giant leap and returned….
with a spoon.
Who’s going to throw a fresh cherry pie away? First he tried a little bit on the spoon and reported:
Really good crust, though I like yours better. Just enough sugar and not too much almond extract.
Next he claimed a big bowl and scooped it all in as he finally realized he wouldn’t have to share this pie at all. Even if I made another one, this one was all his. And he didn’t care if it was in pieces. Men are not about appearances when it comes to pie. My sister, however, for whom the pie was baked, would have cared a lot. She wanted a whole gorgeous, intact pie; I knew this well.
What I kept thinking about was Cherry Pie Parfait. Scoops of deconstructed cherry pie layered with big dollops of whipped cream. In a Bordeaux glass. Why not? I was a lovely thought. (When life gives you lemons…)
|The pie before its fall–made with Dorie Greenspan’s basic crust.|
Starting over early the next morning:
This version made with my all-butter and sugar-free crust, which I decided I liked better.
|Every picture tells a story, don’t it?|
helen’s cherry pie–try not to drop yours
makes one 9 inch pie
- 2 2/3 cups unbleached white flour
- 2 teaspoons finely ground sea salt
- 1 cup (8 ounces or two sticks), very cold or frozen—cut into pieces about 1 tablespoon (1 ounce) each
- ½ cup (4 ounces) ice water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Make the pie dough first:
Make the cherry pie filling and set it aside:
Roll out the dough:
Put the filling into the bottom crust:
Roll out the second crust and top the pie with it:
Bake and cool the pie:
Sing a new song; bake two cherry pies,
“It’s not what’s on the table that’s important. It’s who’s in the chairs.”
This post includes:
- Guide to cooking and baking hotlines
- Links to great Thanksgiving sites for tips, food, decoration, kids’ activities
- My own favorite Thanksgiving photos, recipes, music, wine, and even a blessing or two …
I can’t preach about giving thanks. I’ll just say I think it’s healthy. It’s lovely in that it’s a discipline folks of any religion or country can take part. But of course, our fair “Rabbie” had it best:
Some Hae Meat
Some hae meat and canna eat,
And some wad eat that want it,
But we hae meat and we can eat,
And sae the Lord be thankit.
Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. You could have guessed.
My worlds all come together on that day.
Giving thanks– being grateful–is a practice or discipline of many religions and cultures, including mine.
I need it. I need that discipline. And:
Creating a meal to honor that…is my idea of a great day!
I wish you a day of totally beautiful, grateful life.
A grace could be very simply giving thanks for the hands that made the meal, for the workers in the stores, on the trucks, in the gardens and the vineyards. Even a toast to all who made it possible would work. Mark the moment.
Thanksgiving, after all, is a word of action.
Awareness. Awakeness. Appreciation. Peaceful breath.
A table that includes something you love.
Someone you love.
Some of the best new scripture these days is found on paper napkins.
I have some that say, “It’s not what’s on the table that’s important. It’s who’s in the chairs.”
Ah, that we have to print that somewhere.
Deep breaths and a sense of warm wonder to you as you prepare to give thanks this year.
If the only prayer you said in your whole life was, “thank you,” that would suffice.
Before the fun begins, thanks for reading and responding:
In case you need help with the meal….
|Two Mushroom-Red Onion Soup from my upcoming book.|
*Splendid Table (Radio) from 11am-1pm CT on Thanksgiving Day: 800-537-5252
*Reynolds’ Turkey Tips: 800-745-4000 Open through December 31, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
*Butterball Hotline: 1-800-BUTTERBALL Weekdays from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Central Time
*Crisco Pie Hotline:
(877) 367-7438 toll-free. Provides answers the most common questions about baking pies for novice bakers as well as offering tips that will benefit the most seasoned baker. The hotline also offers the option for callers to connect to a live pie expert for pie baking guidance. Hours: 9 – 7 EST except for: Nov. 12 – 21 (8am – 8pm EST) and Dec. 12 – 22 (8am – 8pm EST)
*USDA Meat and Poultry Line:
(888) 674-6854 from 10a.m. to 4 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday. Closed weekends and holidays, except Thanksgiving. Special hours of operation on Thanksgiving are 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., Eastern Time.
It is of course possible to dance a prayer.
Thanksgiving Listening and Watching + Kids’ Stuff:
Download Mary Chapin Carpenter’s Thanksgiving Song here.
Thou hast given so much to me,
Give one thing more, – a grateful heart;
Not thankful when it pleaseth me,
As if Thy blessings had spare days,
But such a heart whose pulse may be Thy praise.
Minneapolis Turkey Day 5K Run 8am Nov 22, 2012
Walk to End Hunger Mall of America Nov 22, 2012: 7am Registration; 7:30-10:30
Really Good Websites with Thanksgiving Tips, Recipes, and Ideas
I could reinvent the wheel here and give you step-by-step, day by day, but here’s a list of places that have already done all that work. Have at it. Below that, I’ve listed some of my own favorite recipes or menus from this blog or Dinner Place, Cooking for One. I include an Intimate Thanksgiving, which is a Thankgiving for two (with leftovers) or for four (not too many leftovers.) It was created for those who really don’t have much time to spend on Thanksgiving, but want a special meal nevertheless.
America’s Test Kitchen: Turkey and Gravy
James Peterson’s Gravy Guide
Martha Stewart’s Thanksgiving Planner
Vegan Thanksgiving: 12 Recipes
LA Times: Great Thanksgiving Photos
Glazed Turkey from the Chicago Trib
Free: Martha Stewart Thanksgiving (2011) Ebook with 40 Recipes
Smitten Kitten’s Thanksgiving
Taste Test: Store-Bought Stuffing
Perfect Pantry Sugar-Free Slow-Cooker Cranberry Sauce
Serious Eats: 16 Salads for Thanksgiving
Kalyn’s Kitchen: 11 Green Bean Recipes
Mark Bittman: 101 Starts on the Day
Giada’s Butternut Squash Lasagne
Melissa Clark: What Can I Actually Prepare Before Thanksgiving?
Gourmet Live: Thanksgiving 2012
Chowhound’s 10 Thanksgiving Cooking Essentials
The Bitten Word’s 2012 Thanksgiving Recipe Index:
Thanksgiving Videos: Mark Bittman
King Arthur Flour Cranberry-Pumpkin Rolls
Perfect Pantry’s Squash Muffins
Download Gluten-Free Thanksgiving Baking App
Pie Perfected by Carole Bloom
David Lebovitz’ Pumpkin Ice Cream
Thanksgiving Wine: NYTimeswine:
HGTV’s Stylish Thanksgiving Table Settings
Thanksgiving Decoration from Epicurious
|Maybe it’s a good time to pull out the bread machine?|
More Time at the Table/Dinner Place Thanksgiving Posts:
|Kathy’s Apple Pie (More Time at the Table)|
Alyce’s Thanksgiving: An Intimate View : Very Simple and Quick Thanksgiving for 2-4 people who don’t want to cook much:
- Starters: Olives and Nuts–set out in small bowls served with sparkler/wine
- First course: Pumpkin or Butternut Squash Soup (purchased)
- Main course: Turkey Roulade, stuffed W/ Proscuitto/Sage/Onions/Garlic
- Sides: Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables with Fresh Rosemary
- Brussel Sprouts (pan-roasted) w/ Parmesan & Pumpkin Seeds
- Home-made Spicy Cranberry Sauce w/ Apples and Lemon
- Bread: Corn Muffins or Rolls from the bakery
- Dessert: Pumpkin Ice Cream, purchased from grocery OR Pumpkin Custards baked the day before and refrigerated (Use any pumpkin pie filling recipe and bake custards in pammed ramekins about 30 min. at 350—No crust)
- Drinks: Wine: A to Z Riesling and Sineann Pinot Noir- Have both! Coffee: French Roast, laced with Cognac and Whipped Cream
|Pears Poached in Port|
Other recipes of mine you might enjoy at Thanksgiving:
Alyce’s Bacon Roasted Chicken or I Don’t Want Turkey
Alyce’s Roasted Chicken and Butternut Squash
Alyce’s Roasted Pork Loin, Hot and Spicy Cranberry Sauce
Potato Gratin with Rosemary Crust
Alyce’s Butternut and Other Squash Soup
Alyce’s Pan-Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Parmesan New Potatoes
Alyce’s Green Beans Sauteed with Onions and Garlic
Alyce’s Turkey Pot Pie from Thanksgiving Leftovers
Alyce’s Pumpkin Soup or Making Up for Thanksgiving
Alyce’s Spicy Cream of Pumpkin Soup+Wendy’s Sage and Thyme
Alyce’s Pear-Grilled Fig Salad with Goat Cheese
Alyce’s Israeli Couscous-Butternut Squash Salad with Fall Fruit and Cheese
Alyce’s Pumpkin Bread
Alyce’s Quick Prune Bread
Alyce’s No-Knead Bread Post on Dinner Place
Alyce’s Whole Wheat Yeast Rolls (from Bill Kalbus)
Poached Pears in Port
Alyce Morgan’s Pie 101
Alyce’s Derby Pie (Pecan-Chocolate with Bourbon)
Alyce’s Kathy’s Apple Pie
Alyce’s Almond-Scented Pear Crostata
Alyce’s Ask Me About Dessert Post
Alyce’s Pumpkin Custard with Cinnamon Creme Fraiche (One Minute Pumpkin “Pie”–no crust)
|Pumpkin-Chocolate Chip Bread. Thanksgiving morning breakfast.|
my quick take on the (american) wine and other drinks
Need extra wine glasses? Borrow them! If you’d like a large inexpensive set to keep from year to year, and can’t spend much: go to the dollar store or a discount place like Marshall’s. You can store a couple of boxes in the closet or basement and have them available for loan or a February Sangria party.
Drink what you like:
Wine is for your enjoyment and the enhancement of food. So, do not fret and fuss about the wine (or anything.) First and foremost, you should drink exactly what you like with Thanksgiving dinner. If you have no idea what you like, go to the wine shop or liquor store, and find a salesperson who’s willing to talk to you. Do not do this on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving unless you’re a glutton for punishment. Everyone else in the city will be there and the clerks will be infinitely hassled while wondering what they’re having for Thanksgiving and who’s going to cook it all. Tell the salesperson what kinds of wine you (and your guests if you know) like, what your price is (don’t be shy), how many people you’ve having, and what your menu is. Believe it or not, everyone is not having turkey, dressing, and pumpkin pie. This person has paired vegetarian lasagne, pumpkin ravioli, goose, steak, and an all-raw menu before you arrived.
Don’t know what you like:
If you’re a do-it-yourself kind of shopper and want to go to the liquor superstore or simply have NO idea of what to buy, then I go with my tried and true recommendations, which are:
A. One bottle of wine per person (total) is the rule. Yes. You’ll be there for hours. I like American wine for Thanksgiving, so my recommendations are based on no wine from outside the United States.
B. Overall: Provide a sparkler for before dinner or apertif, then one white and one red to make everyone at least closer to happy. Some sort of after-dinner drink or digestif is needed as well, though a walk will help, too.
I don’t like a cocktail before this kind of a meal…too many calories and too much alcohol, but then again, I’m a wine person.
Have beer on hand. Get your brother-in-law’s favorite so he’ll be quiet or choose a saison, which would pair admirably with the meal if he won’t drink wine even with food.
Have lots of non-alcoholic choices. Sparkling water is pretty in a wine glass and is good for digestion for everyone, actually. Non-alcoholic beer (Kaliber is about the best), iced Ceylon tea, and plenty of plain water are good choices. Coffee is necessary; have the pot ready and start it when you sit down to dinner so people can help themselves. Some will want it immediately after the meal even if they’re happy to wait hours for dessert. If you don’t drink coffee, borrow a pot. You can’t skip it.
C. For the sparkler, buy a New Mexican sparkling wine like Gruet.
I suggest Riesling for the white (Washington state, Oregon, or New York). The lower the alcohol content, the sweeter the wine. The alcohol content is printed on the label. So if you like sweet, get an 8 or 9% alcohol Riesling. 11? Much drier. Don’t know? I’d go with the sweeter for a group; you’re bound to have people in who want sweeter wine and your red will definitely be dry.
The red: Oregon Pinot Noir. It’s a splurge and it’s worth it. If you need a lower-price Pinot Noir, choose A-Z or Angeline. If you simply don’t like Pinot Noir (why?), buy a good California Merlot. By the way, if you decide you like the Oregon Pinot Noir (and I’m a Pinot girl), buy a couple of extra bottles and squirrel them away in a cool, dry place for next year. This wine doesn’t have to age terribly long to be scrumptious, but it’s usually better with a few years under its belt. The older vintages are sometimes available, but not always. If they are, they’re a lot more expensive. Buy them young.
D. If you’d like a dessert wine, American sherry–or port– is lovely with pumpkin pie.
A little nip of Jack in the coffee would do no one from below (or even above) the Mason-Dixon line any harm. Save the Irish coffee for St. Patrick’s Day.
some pics of blog favorites for the holiday:
|Almond-Scented Pear Crostata from More Time at the Table.|
On Thanksgiving Day, all over America, families sit down to dinner at the same moment – halftime.
|Hot and spicy Cranberry Sauce cooking in the pot. It’s done quickly and can be done a day or two ahead.|
|My pumpkin soup topped with Parmesan and chopped peanuts. A nutritious soup for a first course is elegant and will help keep folks from overeating.|
|Pecan or Derby Pie is a great Thanksgiving choice. When else would you make it?|
|Spicy Cream of Pumpkin with Wendy’s Sage and Thyme|
|Pear-Grilled Fig Salad with Goat Cheese (dried figs are fine, too)|
|Don’t bake? One-Minute Pumpkin Custard with Creme Fraiche.|
|Butternut and Other Squash Soup|
|Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables (Leftovers make great soup.)|
|An ultra thin ginger snap smothered with hot pastry cream serves as the “crust.”|
How the Quick Kiwi Tart with Gingersnap Crust came to be…
While I love to bake a pie as much as the next woman (more than most, I’d guess), I also like nearly instant desserts that are luscious and don’t wear out the soles of your trainers. (Like after you’ve cooked for company all day and still need dessert.) I have a pocketful of favorites like a 30-second pumpkin custard (it’ll be in my soup book) and a blink-done individual chocolate flourless “cake.” I also have no-bake favorites like a strawberry ice cream parfait layered with crumbled ginger shortbread and fresh peaches. In cases of real emergencies, I buy ice cream and cones–and not just for the kids.
But today I needed a kiwi something. Not exactly in my bailiwick; I use kiwi in fruit salads or the occasional smoothie. I kept picturing the industrial size, looks/tastes-like-Paris fruit tarts they sell at Marigold Bakery and Cafe in Colorado Springs. The perfectly trained pastry chef turned out racks of these tarts daily–as well as many other pastries and breads. You can’t count on him to spell your best friend’s name right on her birthday cake, but you can count on a piece of a tart at 3pm with your coffee or a full tart at 8pm for emergency company. If you order ahead, you can get 12 for your son’s rehearsal dinner. In other words, you can depend on that tart. It’s topped with all the glories of many kinds of fruit. But it’s not spring; it’s not summer. Berries are over and I don’t need a BIG tart at all. I need a T-tiny tart… (as my fine old friend Susan Gimarc would say) Well, one for me and one for Dave. Maybe two for tomorrow, though he usually gets all dessert leftovers. But that’s it. Enter the very petite and quick “Kiwi Tart with Ginger Snap Crust” made in a small ramekin. The crust for each tart is one gingersnap at the bottom of a ramekin or small bowl. Topped with hot pastry cream, the cookie doesn’t crumble, but softens into a beautiful crust made for a spoon. Here’s how:
quick individual kiwi tarts with ginger snap crust makes 4
|Make a small pan of vanilla pastry cream (crème patissière, which is very like vanilla pudding). Recipe below.|
|Place one thin gingersnap in the bottom of each of four ramekins.|
|These are my favorite gingersnaps. (Except for my own, of course)|
|Spoon hot pastry cream into ramekins.|
|If not serving right away, cover each tart with plastic wrap (pressing plastic down to cream) to prevent a skin from forming on the pastry cream. Refrigerate for up to one day. Otherwise, let cool a few minutes, and then go to next step:|
|Stand 3-4 slices of peeled kiwi in the cream. (Optional: Heat 1 tablespoon apricot jam in microwave and brush kiwi with it.) Serve immediately with extra ginger snaps if desired.|
3 kiwi fruit; each peeled and cut into four thin slices
4 thin gingersnaps, store-bought or homemade ( I like Anna‘s Ginger Thins.)
Pastry cream (below)
Optional: 1 tablespoon apricot jam
pastry cream recipe
from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins*
- 1 cup milk (whole or 2%)
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1/8 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract**
In a heavy saucepan, combine milk, sugar, cornstarch, and egg yolks. Place over low heat and, whisking, bring to a boil. Cook another minute and remove from heat. Stir in butter, salt, and vanilla extract.
*There are many pastry cream recipes, but a lot of them make a large amount of pastry cream and many more use a larger amount of egg yolks. Use whichever you like best. This one has a very simple and streamlined process, is tasty, and makes just enough for these four tarts. You could also, of course, use a low-fat, light pudding or custard recipe if needed. Difference between pastry cream and vanilla pudding? I can’t tell much, though sometimes vanilla pudding doesn’t have eggs. The difference, however, between pastry cream and custard is that custard is 1. thickened only with eggs (no cornstarch or flour) and is 2. cooked in a water bath (bain marie) in the oven, while pastry cream or vanilla pudding is a stove top process.
**You can also flavor pastry cream with a little brandy or Grand Marnier–try 1/2 teaspoon first and add a second 1/2 if needed.
about those kiwi
Calories: 108 calories per cup of kiwi
Kiwifruit is one of nature’s perfect foods: low in calories, high in energy and an excellent source of antioxidants. Each one delivers a world of nutrition benefits, including:
- Vitamin C: Each serving of kiwifruit has nearly two-and-a-half times the recommended daily allowance of vitamin C, proven to boost the immune system and fight the effects of stress and aging.
- No fat: Kiwifruit is fat-free, an important consideration in today’s healthy diets and a rarity among foods containing so many other nutritional benefits.
- Fiber: Two kiwifruit contain more fiber than a bowl of bran cereal, the tasty way to maintain heart health, regular digestion and lower cholesterol.
- Potassium: A serving of California Kiwifruit has more potassium than a banana, ideal for maintaining fluid and electrolyte balance and for releasing energy during exercise.
- Antioxidants: Kiwifruit is an excellent source of antioxidants which are important in reducing your risk of cancer, heart disease and stroke.
- Low glycemic index: With a glycemic index of 52, kiwifruit is a fat-free, low-carb fruit that’s safe for diabetics and a smart part of any weight-loss diet.
- Magnesium: Two kiwifruit deliver 30 mg of magnesium, which improves nerve and muscle function while boosting your energy level.
- Lutein: Kiwifruit contains the phytochemical lutein, which works to prevent age-related blindness and protect eyes from various kinds of damage.
- Folate: With nearly 10% of the recommended daily value of folate, kiwifruit is a good way to protect the health of mother and baby during pregnancy while helping prevent birth defects.
- Zinc: Men will appreciate kiwifruit’s zinc content, which helps produce testosterone, while everyone can enjoy its other benefits like healthy hair, skin, teeth and nails.
Vitamin E: Kiwifruit is one just a handful of fat-free sources of vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant that helps lower cholesterol and boost immunity. (Info and photo: Courtesy California Kiwifruit Commission)
Join our blogging group!
- I blog with a great group of writers every Friday where we cook our way through the list of foods from Whole Living Magazine’s Power Foods: 150 Delicious Recipes with the 38 Healthiest Ingredients: Read more about tasty kiwi this week at these sites:
Ansh – SpiceRoots.comChaya – SweetSav.blogspot.comJeanette – JeanettesHealthyLiving.comMartha – Simple-Nourished-Living.comMinnie Gupta from TheLady8Home.comMireya – MyHealthyEatingHabits.com
Sarah – Everything in the Kitchen Sink
- We’d like to have you as part of the group. Get in touch with Mireya from My Healthy Eating Habits: Mireya@MyHealthyEatingHabits.com
two-dog kitchen and around the ‘hood
On the Dinner Place (Cooking for One) Blog this week” The 30-Second-No Pan to Wash Egg
This week’s fave post on More Time: Guiness Beef Pot Pie with Cheddar Dill Biscuits
Today I’m baking oatmeal chocolate chips for the reception after the Historic Organ Recital at Prospect Park United Methodist (where I work as a choir director). It’s 7:30 tonight, Friday, October 19. See you there. A favorite activity, I did it last week, too…
- a blog repeat, but fun:
Saturday, I baked oatmeal chocolate chips for the authors in town for Opus and Olives, one of the premiere literary events in the Twin Cities held each fall at the Crown Plaza Hotel in St. Paul. (Mark Shriver said he’d eaten his six all in a row; he’d had no food in hours while traveling!) Dave and I also went the banquet and enjoyed a fine meal with great folks while we listened to the each author speak. (My favorite was Cheryl Strayed, but then again, I adored her book Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail.)
I also meet today for lunch with a wonderful editor/writer who I hope will be doing some editing on the book, 30 Soups in 30 Minutes. This week– test on turnip soup (lovely–no details given away here) and lots of work in Microsoft Word, which isn’t nearly so fun as drumming up new soups in my kitchen. Not sure we’ll be done with this little ditty by Christmas, but who knows?
Sing a new song,
|R for Rhubarb
This post now featured on Rachel Rappaport’s PIE FAIR LADY blog!
Thanks, Rachel. Bake pie!
If, by chance you’re looking for gluten-free pie dough, please just go to Gluten-Free Girl…a great blog; here’s one post on pie dough there.
I’m just guessing that usually there’s a lot of love goes into pie. Making it is not an endeavor one embarks on lightly. Like weeding the flower bed out back or picking up a gallon of milk at the store. It’s kind of a devoted, warm-fuzzy, all around commitment. Bake with a band on sort of thing. (Being both a cook and musician gives me license for such sentences.)
Whatever reason brings you to pie, I hope this little (not really so little) tutorial will be of help. It contains the story of my own pie-making, a photo-essay on making the rhubarb pie (including crust), and the recipes/basic info you’ll need to make it all happen. FYI: This long pie post is truly a work in progress.
How I Came to Pie:
|Kathy’s Apple Pie|
When I was newly married in the mid-seventies, pie-making was already an art not necessarily pursued by the typical home cook. Oh, of course there was pie. But it might have been made with a frozen crust from the grocery store or a tube of pie dough you bought prepared but not yet rolled out. It could have come from any one of a bunch of great bakeries; there are fewer of those now. Many pies appeared with graham cracker crusts and then you could even buy those pre-made. To put a point on it, I didn’t know another 20 year old who was baking pies.
In those days, it was the cool thing to take the easy way out with food. Women were leaving the kitchen and going to work. They didn’t want to be tied down to cooking or baking all day and reveled in ready-made products or short-cut techniques. Think cake and pudding mixes and frozen vegetables, Stouffers’ frozen meals. Maybe we were the Jetsons’ or the Space Program Generation and somehow perhaps thought cooking food was about to be passe; it would soon appear magically behind Door #3.
But I knew people who baked pie. My mom, for instance (though she might pull out a frozen crust once in a while herself late in life) and Dave’s Aunt Kathryn–the Morgan pie-baker. In college, the wife of our department head (the late, beautiful Cindy Izzo), made pie when we ended up there one snowed-out Thanksgiving when we couldn’t get home. I think each family sort of depended on one person to be in charge of pie. Often it was someone who was simply willing. I also had a couple of friends (older than me) who baked beautiful pies. I really wanted to be one of those people and so I began. “Oh! You make pie?” Learning to bake pies goes slowly as most cooks don’t make them often. We wait for holidays and then wonder why our pies are lopsided. If you want to bake pie, bake one more often than at holiday time.
|Coffee Cup Pie for One|
My own early attempts didn’t look too bad or sad (or maybe they did), but were under baked. (Lesson One: Bake pies in a clear glass pie plate so you can see that the bottom crust is done.) To say that my husband loves pie is an understatement and I kept trying. I learned to throw a piece of aluminum foil on top if it browned too much or to put a collar of aluminum foil around the pie from the beginning. Finally, I began pies at a high temperature and lowered them to a moderate one after 15 minutes so that the pie got done but didn’t burn. I learned to underbake pumpkin pie just a teense so that it barely shivered when moved and only a few moist crumbs stuck to the knife when I tested it. Custard should be creamy, not jelloey or like rubber. I discovered fruit pies maybe needed a few more minutes so that the filling really was making a run for it through the slits in the top crust and the crust had some nice brown to it here and there. No soft pallid pies for me.
Over the nearly forty years of pie baking, I’ve made everything from banana cream to sweet potato to apple crostatas to pear tarts to quiches. I’ve made big pies and little pies and even coffee cup pies. Most of the pies pictured are on the blog; you can search them if you’re interested; most have links.
|Sour Cream Crumble Apple Pie
|Very fast Kiwi Tart . Crust is made by pouring hot pastry cream on an ultra thin gingersnap cookie||!|
|Turkey Pot Pie from Thanksgiving Leftovers|
|Strawberry-Hazelnut Shortbread Tart|
|Helen’s Cherry Pie (intact)|
|Pie Crust Cookies (Trimmed-extra- pie dough twisted, fried, and rolled in cinnamon sugar)|
|Betty White’s Mexican Quiche|
If someone asks, I promise I’ll swear I never said this…but if you just can’t make pie dough (and I don’t think there’s anyone who can’t), please buy a refrigerated pie crust –not frozen–at the supermarket or ask a friend to make you a few for a birthday gift each year. Making pie, however you do it, is really a worthwhile experience. Even for people like me, who prefer piece of incredible chocolate cake. There, I said it.
|We have a lot of chances to make pie. Take one!|
Whatever you bake, have a light heart about it and your pastry will take it’s cue from you. Be gentle with it (and yourself) and get it to do what you want as quickly as possible–the goal is to get it into the oven as cold as possible. Your warm hands, while perfect for many things, are not its friend. Keep some fun music on (remember “cook with a band on?”) and keep everyone else out of the kitchen so you can concentrate. If you have a veteran pie-baker friend or partner in the house, tell them exactly what kind of help you need if you haven’t asked them to be your wing man.
But not to worry how things look or turn out… Nothing is perfect, particularly not pie. (It’ll get eaten no matter. Ice cream, or better yet whipped cream, hides a plethora of sins.) Think of the Amish quilters who intentionally sew one imperfect patch into every quilt because only God is perfect. Keep baking and your pie-making will improve much like your piano playing, typing, hammering a nail, or baby-handling did as you went along. I include pictures of all sorts of imperfect pies and crusts; it’s just how it rolls. Happy Pie!
Time to get your pie on…
This dough is made in a Cuisinart food processor.
See recipes below for information on making by hand.
Hint #1 Start in the morning or very early afternoon when you have a lot of time; it takes time to make/ bake pie and it takes even more time to cool. Hot pie is a mess. Also, in the summer, when great fruit is plentiful, it’s hot. Dame, get up and bake your pies early in the morning. Like 5a.m. mid-summer.)
|Iced water added. Processed until just coming together or just starting to come together. Don’t overwork the dough. When you pinch a bit between your thumb and index finger, it should stay together.|
|Meantime, or ahead, chop the rhubarb into about 1/2″ pieces, place in a bowl and stir together with sugar, flour, and salt. Set aside.|
Hint #2 Make mostly in season, but also a little out of season pie. Rhubarb in the spring, blueberries in early summer, apple in the fall…Buy extra fruit when it’s beautiful and cheap; freeze enough for a couple of pies you’ll enjoy at the holidays or mid-winter. Picture a February evening and a hot blueberry pie cooling on the counter.
|Flip dough over and roll quickly-once!-with rolling pin to release dough from waxed paper.|
|Gently peel that side’s paper off.|
|Turn dough over onto pie plate and carefully pull the other sheet of paper off.|
|Gently press dough down into pie plate as evenly as possible so no air pockets exis Edges should hang over.|
|Into the pan, trim with a small sharp knife or kitchen scissors so that you have 1″ of dough beyond the edge of the pie plate. Crimp (pinch) edges quickly; you don’t want to heat the dough with your fingers any more than you must.|
|Fill with rhubarb mixture and dot with butter. The butter and the flour in the rhubarb will create the thickener. Now for the top crust…|
Hint #3: Don’t skimp on the amount of fruit or filling for your pie. Fruit particularly will cook down and, once baked/cooled, the finished pie won’t be nearly as tall as when you first put it together. If you’re going to go to all the trouble of baking pie, fill that baby up. (Custard pies will rise while baking and then settle back down a bit when cooled. For custard pies only: place your unfilled pie crust in the pie plate on a baking sheet that is already in the oven with the oven rack just barely pulled out; fill it there to avoid spilling and then gently push the rack into the oven and close the oven door.)
|Take that top or second piece of rolled-out dough and loosely roll it around your rolling pin.
Fold dough carefully and gently first in half and then into quarters.
|There, it’s on and covered and just needs trimming.|
|Trim evenly with sharp knife or scissors. (I like to make pie crust cookies out of extra dough.)|
|Seal or crimp edges quickly; don’t over work dough.|
|Place on a rimmed baking sheet (not your favorite cookie sheet) in case of boil overs.|
|It’s done when it’s browned and bubbling through slits. Glass pie plates help you see if it’s done.|
|So close and yet so far away. This must cool nearly completely or you’ll cut it and have a sea of filling all over.|
|Here’s the rhubarb at the St. Paul Farmer’s Market. Trim and dispose of leaves carefully; they’re full of oxalic acid and are poisonous.|
|Coming home in my basket|
- 2- 9″ pie crusts, purchased or homemade *
- 5 cups rhubarb, trimmed and chopped into 1/2″ pieces (leaves are toxic)
- 3/4 c white sugar If you sweeten your crust, use 1/2 cup sugar.
- 1/4 c all-purpose flour
- Dash salt
- 2T butter, cold, cut into small dice
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
- In a large bowl, mix together rhubarb, sugar, flour, and salt.
- Place one pie crust in a 9″ pie pan (preferably glass).
- Gently spoon rhubarb mixture into crust.
- Dot rhubarb with butter evenly.
- Place second crust on top. Trim edges evenly around the pie pan. Crimp, pinch, or press down with fork tines the edges of the crust to seal the pie. (If you have a lot of leftover crust, twist each small piece, fry it up in hot canola oil and roll in cinnamon sugar. Eat pie crust cookies while warm.)
- With a sharp, thin knife, cut vents into the top crust to allow steam to escape from filling. You can make a favorite design (smiley face, your daughter’s first initial, etc.) or just make 4-6 arrows or wide “v”s spaced evenly. If you’d like, you can gild the lily by sprinkling the top crust with a dusting of white sugar or by brushing on a whisked together mixture of an egg yolk and a tablespoon of heavy cream or milk.
- Bake pie on a rimmed baking sheet at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 and cook another 45 minutes or so until crust is golden and rhubarb is bubbling through the slits. If crust is browning too quickly, cover lightly with a sheet of aluminum foil or cut 4″ wide pieces of foil and wrap them around the edges of the pie. You’ll need 2-3 pieces.
- Cool completely on rack before cutting. (or the filling will run all over)
- A fruit pie can remain stored and covered well at room temperature for a day or two. If not using within two days, refrigerate. If you must freeze, I recommend freezing your rhubarb, not the pie. See below.
Pie Dough…about it:
Pie Dough Recipes:
I often use an old recipe (below) from the small manual that came with my first Cuisinart in the early ’80s maybe. It’s a pâte brisée (paht bree-say) dough, which is typically for a French tart (add a little sugar) or quiche. I particularly like it for custard pies (including pumpkin pie), pies made with a blind crust (i.e. a cream pie that’s filled after the crust is baked), or quiches. This is a “short” crust (more crumbly than flaky–as in “shortbread”) and quite dense, which helps to keep the crust crisp versus soggy within a day or so. It is also an all-butter crust in a baking age where vegetable shortening is sometimes frowned upon as a processed and somewhat unhealthy ingredient.
Shortening? Lard?? How about no crust at all?
I will say this about shortening: I do not pretend to know the ins and outs of the health side of shortening (my can now says “no trans fats”), though it has come to replace lard in baking for many people. (Though not all.) I do know two things about shortening: it makes a flaky crust and it makes a crust that holds up well to a fruit pie. We also do not eat many pies. It’s not as if you’ll consume shortening, or even lard, daily. You can make all shortening (Crisco, for example) crust or you can make a part butter, part shortening crust as does Dorie Greenspan (“Good for Almost Everything Pie Dough”), who has written several baking books, as well as a first class blog. If you do use shortening (it’s cheaper and some people really like it better or simply must avoid dairy), make sure you chill it thoroughly or even stick it in the freezer for a while. Cold fat is the key, though baking pies in the middle of life (nursing babies, re-writing a proposal, doing the wash) can leave you baking a pie with room-temperature dough. (It bakes. It eats. And there’s usually not time enough to begin again. Just go on.)
I have never baked a pie with lard (rendered pork fat), so I don’t have much to say about it. I can say that there are amongst us veteran pie-bakers (one of my dearest friends) who would not use anything else for their flaky crust. In the course of cooking history, I just guess bakers have used fats from many sources–usually the most easily (closest and/or cheapest source) available. Witness my mom who kept bacon grease in a tightly closed tin and used it to cook all kinds of things, particularly eggs. (Never for pie that I remember–though it might not be bad in a pot pie.) Oddly enough, I remember that tin sitting on the counter and not in the refrigerator. Butter has always been a choice and expensive ingredient, especially when you had to milk the cow, allow the cream to separate, and make the butter yourself. Pies use a lot of fat, which adds considerably to the cost of the finished product. Hence a history of using less-expensive fat.
If you cannot eat all the fat involved in a pie crust, many pies can be made with just one crust, which will also cut a lot of calories, or no crust at all. Quiche, too, can often be made with no crust. Grease pans well for crustless pies.
|Here’s a little pie (pumpkin) I bake in individual ramekins with no crust at all. It can be made in the oven or microwave (1 minute) It’s actually just custard, right? You can really do a whole pumpkin pie in a 9″ pie pan without crust. This one has a dollop of creme fraiche on top, as well as an extra sprinkle of Penzey’s Vietnamese cinnamon.|
Pie storage: Invite friends and eat it up! Pie is best the day it’s made.
Any pie made with a filling including eggs and milk must be stored in the refrigerator if not consumed on the day it’s eaten. Do not pay attention to pumpkin pies that sit for a week on the shelf at Sam’s. If your pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving is made on Wednesday night, store it in the garage where it’s cold-if you live “up north” or refrigerate it. Take it out a couple of hours before to dinner so that you eat it at room temperature, which is how you want to consume custard pies. If you make it early Thanksgiving morning (as do I–custard pies are best the day they’re made), it’s fine on the table until Thursday night. When you eat it for breakfast Friday morning, it had better be cold.
A fruit pie (made with a butter or a shortening crust) can sit out covered on the counter for a day or two with no harm and is, in fact, tastier than if you chill it. It’s not something you want to refrigerate; think of refrigerated bread. However, use your own good sense…if it’s in the nineties and you want to keep that fruit pie three or four days, refrigerate it, too, or you’ll have moldy pie.
About sizes of pies and pie plates:
Just about any pie can be made in any size pie plate or pie pan, as some bakers say. Typically pies are 8″, 9″, or 10″ in diameter; tarts are about 9″. There are are also 4″ individual pies and 3″ -or smaller- – individual tart pans. But the standard size these days is 9″. In fact, it’s hard to find recipes that detail pie recipes for different size pies, but that information is still available in old cookbooks and might be out there on the net. It’s just as difficult to find something like an 8″ pie plate, but you can still find them in pie shops, antique shops, and places like Goodwill or the Arc. It’s well worth the time to hunt out several sizes of pie plates because you might not always have enough ingredients for two 10″ pies, for example, but you might have enough for one 10″ and one 8″ or one baby pie. You can also pull out a ramekin or an oven-safe small bowl (or other oven-safe container) and make your pie.
Pâte Brisée— Made in a Cuisinart — This is the dough I use most often.
for each 10″ pie shell
1 1/3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 tsp salt
1/2 cup or 1/4# unsalted butter, very cold, cut into 8 pieces (1 stick)
1/4 cup ice water (measure 1/4 cup water into a 1 cup measuring cup half full of ice)
Place flour and salt in the work bowl of the food processor fitted with steel blade. Pulse a couple of times to distribute salt. Add cold butter and pulse briefly several times until butter is worked into flour in several different sizes (1/4″ – 1/2″). With machine running, slowly pour water through feed tube until dough begins to come together. Stop machine and carefully remove dough from work bowl. Working quickly to avoid melting the butter within the dough, form into a ball and then flatten into a disc. Roll out and fill immediately (see above) or chill, well-wrapped, 1 hour or up to two days ahead.
You can also make this dough up to two months ahead and store it in the freezer. If you store it rolled out in the pie plate (Pyrex or metal pans are freezer safe.), you can just make your pie and bake it with a frozen crust.
If you do not have a Cuisinart, make this pie with a pastry cutter (here’s another video) or two knives. Recipe courtesy CUISINART.
Baking Books for Pie:
I typically recommend general baking books for pie like out-of-print (but still available) The Fanny Farmer Baking Book by Marion Cunningham or Baking: From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan, though there are certainly entire tomes donated to pies and pastries. Unless you’ve mastered basic techniques and are ready to move on, these books should provide plenty of recipes. I, for years, made pie from my Betty Crocker Cookbook (early ’70s) and found it really useful, particularly when I wanted to bake pies of different sizes.
If you’d like a book devoted to pies and tarts, try The Pie and Pastry Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum , Pie and Tart from Williams-Sonoma, or Martha Stewart’s Pies and Tarts, the 2011 version. An oldie, but goodie, is Bernard Clayton, Jr.’s The Complete Book of Pastry Sweet and Savory, which is out of print, but still available. My copy, purchased in l985, has this inscription:
l985! Bought myself! Mostly to learn Danish technique.
This book contains everything from pie to quiche/tarts to puff pastry to pizza to Danish.
One specialized book I’m quite fond of is Paris Sweets by Dorie Greenspan. There are super desserts from Parisian patisseries and the Whole Lemon Tart is tops and fairly simple. It’s also a, “Paris, Take Me Away” book if you’re unable to make the trip and taste the pastries yourself. Ah, Paris! (Sigh.) New in the lineup for pie books is Pie it Forward by Gesine Bullock-Prado (just published in April of 2012), and while I haven’t read it, it looks like a book that includes lots of excellent pie information – including a recipe for pizza pie.
There are a lot of baking blogs, but I haven’t seen one that’s just about making pies until now. Try Rachel Rappaport’s Pie Fair Lady; she features pie from all kinds of people…including me! When I first wrote this post, there weren’t any blogs devoted solely to pie-baking. There were blogs ABOUT PIE–as in finding it, buying it, where are you getting any…..: The baking blogs at the top of the heap of flour can be found here.
I also like Rose Levy Beranbaum’s blog, though it deals with lots of baking info, not just pie; read it here.
*My Nastiest True Pie Story
My much-loved father-in-law loves lemon pie (especially lemon meringue) and my much-loved mother-in-law always tried to make it for him–just like his mother did. She’d try and try and it’d never come out. You know this kind of story, right? One time, she asked Grandma Morgan, “What’s your lemon filling recipe?” The answer was lemon pudding mix. Ok, so that’d bake; that was fine. She did that. All’s well, huh? But, no; it wasn’t. The pie was always too sweet, as was any lemon meringue pie my my mother-in-law came up against. “Too sweet.” “Too sweet.” “Too sweet.” And so on. For years and years. Ye gods and little fishes.
One year, I think it was 1999, I just heard enough of “Too sweet.” My in-laws came to visit and I baked the most beautiful lemon meringue pie that ever was baked. I’m not kidding; it was stunning. It could have won awards. (I’m not a contest person, though–too much fear of failure, I think!) But there was one thing about this pie: there was barely any sugar at all in it. I mean, like almost none. This is something you maybe could get away with if you had terribly sweet fruit or something, but not with LEMON. My sweet sister-in-law took the first great big bite and froze with it in her mouth. Her eyes came up to mine and I put my finger in front of my mouth, “Shh.” She ate no more. But my mother-in-law started in on hers and ate it all without a word. Finally I couldn’t stand it anymore. I said, “How was that pie? Not too sweet?” The answer was (and I’m honest here), “No, it was great!” Needless to say, no one but her ate that pie. She had it all to herself.
I can’t believe I did that, but I did. You can ask Dave.
So tell me your pie stories?
Sing a new song as you bake with a-band-on,
All photographs copyright Alyce Morgan. Please ask for permission before using.
This post last updated 11-6-12.